A Winter Night in a Yurt

A long, secluded, rainy weekend in the Gorge was just what we needed. My husband, our furry tagalong, and a long-awaited bucket list stay in a yurt made for a lovely getaway.

Our drive from Portland felt typical for a late-winter evening. The roads glistened with rain and narrowed as we approached our destination. We passed by the city, crossed the Oregon-Washington Bridge, drove through the charming town of Stevenson, and continued about three miles north of Carson before turning onto a smaller paved road for another mile.

Through the rain, we finally spotted an illuminated metal sign reading "Columbia Gorge Getaways," punched in our gate code and made our way down the path.

Unfamiliar with the area and navigating heavier rain in the dark, we carefully found the Loowit yurt, nestled between the Tahoma and Pahto yurts. Each is named after nearby mountains recognized by Indigenous tribes: Loowit for Mount St. Helens, Tahoma for Mount Rainier, Pahto for Mount Adams and a fourth yurt, Wy'East, sits just south of Pahto, named for Mount Hood.

The Loowit yurt

Inside, we were transported to luxury. Fresh local flowers welcomed us into a spotless, fully equipped space with a kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, living area and loft with a skylight overhead. Our pup immediately claimed the included dog bed, as part of the pet add-on package, spinning in circles until it was just right.

Warm wood finishes, modern appliances and cozy decor felt like a step above any campsite we had visited before.

We settled in and fell asleep to the steady drum of rain against the soft, canvas yurt walls.

Morning arrived wrapped in valley fog, the lush green landscape partially veiled. I sipped coffee on the oversized porch while listening to the creek below as our dog pranced through soggy leaves, pausing to look toward the mountain ahead. Though other guests were close by, the grounds felt silent and calm.

Morning coffee on the Loowit front porch

In nearby Stevenson, we visited our favorite coffee and breakfast bites spot, The Cabin Drive Thru, where Barklay received a customary treat followed by thankful tail wags. We walked along the waterfront, savoring the cool weather before summer returns, having visited during the warmer months the year before.

Stevenson Waterfront

Back at Columbia Gorge Getaways, we hiked an easy 0.75-mile trail to the “Grandma” Douglas fir, an approximately 500-year-old tree, and paused to take in the view from the Mountainside Lawn.

Approximately 500-year-old "Grandma" Douglas fir on the Mountainside Trail

We sat on tree stumps watching Barklay sprint through the open field, chase his tail and bury his nose into piles of damp leaves. His white beard hung heavy with dew, whiskers tipped in mud.

View from Mountainside Lawn

On the walk back, energized by the brisk air, we followed a 0.25-mile trail to the nearby creek. After crossing a small wooden bridge, we sat on a log and watched Barklay’s senses come alive again. A nice recess from our everyday suburban sidewalks.

That Valentine's Day evening, we opened a bottle of 2022 Planet Oregon Pinot Noir, paired it with Thunder Island Brewing Co. burgers and a mini red velvet Bundt cake just big enough to share and watched the Winter Olympics while rain tapped gently against the yurt for a second and final night.